Porch-Swing1, rosliny- ogród, Meble ogrodowe
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summer
Sunset’s
swing to build is
big enough for two
rhythm of a swaying swing
slows time on a lazy summer
day. From this vantage point, you can
sip a cool drink, watch neighbors
stroll by, read quietly, or enjoy the
hushed tones of shoulder-to-shoulder
conversations. Whether it hangs from
the sheltered confines of a front
porch or off the branch of a backyard
tree, our swing is sure to transport
you away from the hurried pace of
your work day.
The high-backed swing hangs
securely from sturdy,
5
⁄
8
-inch-diame-
ter nylon or hemp rope that runs
through the swing’s arms and frame.
Distinctive diamond shapes cut in the
back and sides echo a detail from the
Adirondack-style
Sunset
chair (pub-
lished in July 1997). A yellow trans-
parent stain emphasizes the grain of
the wood; it is also protected with
several coats of an exterior, satin-
finish polyurethane. We built the
While away the day in our swing, suspended so its seat tilts comfortably to the rear.
swing of vertical-grain fir, but you
could substitute other woods, such as
redwood, cedar, or hardwoods suit-
able for outdoor use.
The average woodworker can build
the swing in a weekend; staining and
sealing will add several more days,
due to drying time between coats.
Most cuts can be made with a circular
saw, handsaw, or saber saw, but the
angled back support would be more
easily cut with a table saw. A full-
service lumberyard can generally do
this for you.
MATERIALS
• Two 8-foot 2-by-4s • 220 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws
• 32 2
1
⁄
2
-inch deck screws • Nine 10-foot 1-by-4s
• Countersinking bit
A.frame,
end view
against the ends of one long one, flush with the
top of the long one. Secure with two 2
1
⁄
2
-inch
countersunk deck screws. Position the bottom
long piece between the short ones, flush with
their bottom edges but offset to the inside by
the thickness of a 1-by-4 (see drawing
B
). Se-
cure it with two screws into each end. Repeat
to make other frame side.
2.
Cut four 2-by-4 crosspieces 52
3
⁄
8
inches
long. One will be the top support for the back
boards. Its front face needs to be cut to an 80°
angle. If you have a table saw, raise the blade
to its full height and angle it at 10° off vertical.
Position the fence so that the top of the blade
• One 10-foot 1-by-6
• Two 10-foot 2-by-4s
•
5
⁄
8
- or
3
⁄
4
-inch-diameter rope
1-by-1
stop
COST:
About $150
DIRECTIONS
The 1-by-4 boards used for the swing seat, sides, and back se-
cure to a frame of 2-by-4s that consists of two rectangular ends
and three crosspieces. You build the swing in stages: basic frame
and fascia; sides and seat; back; and armrests.
FRAME
1.
Each frame side is made as follows: Cut two 2-by-4 pieces 17
inches long and two 22
7
⁄
8
inches long. Butt the two shorter pieces
1-by-4
end
offset
2-by-4
Weekend project
Swing into
By Peter O. Whiteley
Photographs by Jay Graham
T
he languid, back-and-forth
angles toward it and space it far enough away from the blade so
the cut will just break through the side of the board.
If you have a circular saw, you’ll need a cutting guide. Use a pro-
tractor to set the fully extended blade at 10° off vertical. Tack the
guide to one of the other crosspieces. Align and tack the cross-
piece to be cut so the blade will just break through the vertical face
of the 2-by-4. Cut the 80° angle the full length of the crosspiece.
3.
Place the two frame sides parallel on a work surface with the off-
set boards on the bottom facing in. Position the front crosspiece so
its ends are flush with the out-
side edges of the offset boards.
Secure each end with four 2
1
⁄
2
-
inch deck screws through the
crosspiece and into the side.
4.
Stand the frame sides on their
back edges. Position the cross-
piece with the angled cut be-
tween the inside top rear cor-
ners (see
B
) with the angled face
facing front; stop the crosspiece
short of the frame sides’ outside edges by the thickness of a 1-by-4.
Attach with two 2
1
⁄
2
-inch countersunk screws near the bottom and
one 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screw through the angled top.
5.
Add the third crosspiece so its back edge is 4 inches from the
inside back of the side frames. Secure each end with two 2
1
⁄
2
-inch
countersunk screws running through the bottom of the frame and
into the crosspiece. The fourth crosspiece will be attached later.
BOARDS AND BACK CUTOUTS
6.
Cut the 1-by-4s for the sides, seat, and back. For the sides, cut
12 at 15
1
⁄
2
inches long; for the seat, cut 12 at 24 inches long; and
for the back, cut 12 at 27 inches long.
7.
Lay out the diamond cutouts as facing triangles in four pairs of
side boards and all of the back boards. For the sides, draw a line
across the boards 5 inches from the top end, then draw another
line 1
1
⁄
2
inches below. Starting at the edge of the board, use a com-
A continuous length of sturdy rope runs through armrests and
frame. Note short, notched back board under armrest.
4
”
bination square to connect the lines at a 45° angle, then flip the
square over and draw a line connecting back to the edge of the
board, creating a triangle. Use the same technique for drawing tri-
angles on the back pieces with the midpoint 12
1
⁄
2
inches from the
top end. Cut out triangle shapes with a saber saw or handsaw.
FASCIA BOARD
8.
Measure a 1-by-6 fascia board to fit between the side frames. It
should be 46
3
⁄
4
inches long, but check your distance and cut to
size. Draw a line 1 inch from the bottom edge of the board. From
the bottom edge, starting 1
1
⁄
2
inches from each end, draw a quar-
ter circle up to join this line (see
C
). Cut out with saber saw.
9.
With a rasp or sander, round the top front edge of fascia board.
Place a seat board on the crosspieces. Position the fascia board
so its rear top edge is flush with the top of the seat board. Mark
five evenly spaced points on a line 2 inches down from the top of
the fascia board. Countersink five 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws at these
points. Remove seat board.
SIDES
10.
Rip a 1-inch-wide strip from remaining 1-by-4. From this strip,
cut two pieces to fit between the front pieces of the side frames and
the angled face of the back support (match angle; see
D
). The side
boards will screw to these stops. Align the stops with ends of
crosspiece
supports
for seat
offset
offset
B. frame
C. front
27-inch-long 1-by-4 backrest
D. side
5
”
46-inch-long
1-by-4
back brace
12
1
⁄
2
”
rope
1
1
⁄
2
”
1
1
⁄
2
”
30-inch-
long 1-by-
6 armrest
15
1
⁄
2
-inch-long
1-by-4 sides
8
1
⁄
2
”
6
1
⁄
2
”
1-by-1
stop
52
3
⁄
8
-inch-long
2-by-4 crosspieces
80°
angle
24- inch-long
1-by-4 seat
46
3
⁄
4
-inch-long 1-by-6 fascia
17-inch-
long
2-by-4
offset 2-by-4
54
”
1-by-6
fascia
back brace
with 80°
angle
Back brace secures in top rear
corner of side frame. A slice cut
from its front face helps create the
comfortable angle of the back.
length; this is the back brace. Butt and
center the 1-by-4 against the edge of the
2-by-4 crosspiece and transfer board-
spacing marks.
BACK
14.
Place the 2-by-4 crosspiece and 1-by-
4 back brace parallel and 15 inches apart
(use scraps of 1-by-4 to elevate the back
brace). Overlay back boards so they are
flush and square with bottom of cross-
piece and aligned on marks drawn on
boards. Draw lines 2 inches and 18
1
⁄
2
inches from the bottom, then countersink
1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws along these lines
3
⁄
4
inch from each edge of each board.
15.
To create a tilt to the rear, set the blade
of the table or circular saw at 10° off verti-
cal and trim along the bottom edge of the
back assembly, cutting through both the
1-by-4s and the crosspiece.
16.
Place back assembly on seat so it
pitches to the rear and rests flush against
the angled face of the upper crosspiece.
Draw a line across front face of all the back
boards marking the center of the cross-
piece, then countersink 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck
screws along this line
3
⁄
4
inch from each
edge of each back board.
17.
Turn swing on the front face of frame and
add five 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws through un-
dersides of seat boards
into the crosspiece.
ARMRESTS AND OP-
TIONAL BACK BOARDS
18.
Cut two 30-inch-
long 1-by-6s for arm-
rests. On each board,
mark a point on what
will be the back end 3
1
⁄
2
inches from the inner
side. Draw a diagonal
line from the outside
front corner to this point
and cut along this line
(see
E
). Round all cor-
ners of armrests. Attach
to top of side frame so
the front projects 2
3
⁄
4
inches and the straight side is flush to the
top inside edge (see
C
and
D
).
19.
Optional: For a more finished appear-
ance, you can insert partial back boards
under the armrests to mask the exposed
ends of the crosspieces (see photo, page
138). Remember to trim both ends to an
80° angle; notch the top to fit around the
stop. Check fit, then set aside.
ROPE SUPPORTS
20.
The holes for the rope supports run
just inside the crosspieces and must all
align vertically. Draw a line front to back
1
3
⁄
4
inches from the inside edge of the
armrest. Locate points 6
1
⁄
2
inches from the
front and 8
1
⁄
2
inches from the rear. At those
points drill
3
⁄
4
-inch holes through the arm-
rest and frame. Run a length of dowel at
least 20 inches long through these holes to
the seat, check to be sure dowel is vertical,
and mark the seat boards where the dowel
hits. Take out both of these seat boards
and mark where the dowel meets the
frame bottom. Drill holes through the
marks in the frame and seat boards. Re-
attach the seat boards. Finally, attach the
insert back boards with notched tops.
FINISHING TOUCHES
Sand all surfaces and edges with medium-
and fine-grain sandpaper before staining
and/or sealing the swing. We used a
water-based Minwax stain called Mustard
(800/523-9299 or www.minwax.com) and
sealed the surface with a satin-finish
water-base polyurethane (Varathane: 800/
635-3286 or www.flecto.com).
A knot tied in the end of
5
⁄
8
-inch white ny-
lon rope supports the swing. (You could sub-
stitute a hemp rope or heavy-duty chain.)
How you suspend the swing depends
on your location. The swing weighs about
100 pounds empty. Add two adults, and
there is considerable weight on both the
rope and the structure or branch that sup-
ports it. Check the load capacity of the
rope you select. A continuous length of
rope runs from the support through one
set of holes, under the frame, and back up
(see
D
). Hint: Wrapping rope ends with
tape prevents fraying. Lock the rope in
place on the bottom with oversize staples
that straddle the rope. Adjust it so the
front of the swing hangs slightly higher
than the rear.
Now all that’s needed is a tall glass of
iced tea.
crosspieces (see
A
). Attach with counter-
sunk 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws.
11.
Turn frame on one end. Test-fit six side
boards as shown in
D:
The outside two
boards butt against the frame, and there are
3
⁄
8
-inch spaces between other boards.
Countersink 1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws through
boards,
3
⁄
4
inch in from each edge, to stop
and frame bottom. Repeat for opposite side.
SEAT
12.
Position seat boards so they butt
against fascia board and are spaced about
3
⁄
8
inch apart. Draw lines across boards to
mark centers of crosspieces. Countersink
1
1
⁄
4
-inch deck screws along these lines,
3
⁄
4
inch in from each edge of each board.
13.
Place remaining 2-by-4 crosspiece on
seat above the bottom rear crosspiece.
Mark position of seat boards on this cross-
piece. Measure width of the seat. Cut a
piece of 1-by-4 to 1 inch less than this
8
1
⁄
2
”
scrap
30-
inch-
long
arm-
rest
inside
face of
frame
6
1
⁄
2
”
2
3
⁄
4
”
E. armrest
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